Well, it’s Fall Y’all!  And such a wonderful time of year it is because the blazing heat of the summer is subsiding for cooler temps.  Fall is probably one of my favorite seasons…the crispness of the cool air, bonfires, county fairs, tasty apple and pumpkin treats from the kitchen (which I’m sure that Laura will tell you about in the near future), and of course outdoor fall decor!  Last year we showed y’all some ideas we had for indoor fall decor, well this year we wanted to take y’all outside for some great outdoor ideas to create that warm inviting fall entry way.

I had the idea for an outdoor fall mini-display, but I was trying to figure out a unique and rustic way to do it so that it didn’t look like pre-made things from China were just stuck in the front of our house.  I wanted something with character.  So, since fall is kind of indicative of harvest time, I thought to myself, “Self…what if I make a wooden wheelbarrow to put some fallish things inside so that way I can contain the decor design and create an outdoor space.”  Fortunately myself agreed.  The problem I was running into was that everything I found online was like new designs and I really wanted something rustic.  The online plans were not satisfying my mental plan so I decided to design me own.  The first step was finding some wood.  I called some lumber yards to see if they carried re-claimed wood, but no one carried it in Augusta.  So after a trip to Lowe’s with my creative juices flowing, I found all of my supplies and got to work.  The following is a description of what I did with step by step pictures so you can capture a quaint rustic harvest at your porch.

Supplies: 2 pieces of cedar split rail fencing (found in the outdoor section of Lowe’s), 4 rough cut fence slats (also found in the outdoor section of Lowe’s), an 8 foot pressure treated 2×2, an oak dowel rod (either 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch diameter), 1 steel wheel with a 12″ diameter (you may not be able to find one in town so I had to order mine from this website), 1 box of 4D 1 and 3/8″ long, 10 2 and 1/4″ wood screws, a box of 1 and 1/2″ wood screws, and some wood glue.

Step 1: The “A” Frame

So to start, you will need to make the frame for the bucket portion to sit on.  This is where the split rail cedar fencing comes in.  Look at your split rail to determine a good piece to cut 2 pieces that are 44″ long.  The cool thing about split rail is that it looks really rough cut but usually at least one side is fairly flat.  Split rail fencing also already has a pre-cut notch where the rail is supposed to go in the fence post.  I made sure those ends lined up at the front so there was a good area to mount the wheel to eventually.  So after you cut your to pieces to serve as the main beams, it is time to make the “A” frame.  I did this by deciding on a 10 degree pitch from the midline of beams.  Next, you have to cut your cross beams out of the split rail cedar.  I decided to put my first cross beam 13″ from the front tip of the foundation beams.  This allowed me to have enough room for the wheel and the slight 10 degree pitch of the bucket.  So since the first cross beam is 13″ from the front, that meant that the length of the cross beam was 9″.  Measure out 9″ on the split rail and the cut each end at the 10 degree angle.  Remember…the front edge will be 9″ and the back edge will be longer due to the 10 degree angle!!  Next, cut the second cross bar.  I placed my second cross bar 22″ from the rear of the first cross bar.  This made the front edge length of the second cross bar 15 and 1/2″ with a 10 degree angle cut on both sides.  Next place the pieces out and just fit them together to see the fit.  When you’re satisfied with the fit, drill pilot holes from the side into the cross beams and the drive the 2 and 1/4″ screws through.  I used 3 screws per cross bar.  2 on one side and 1 on the other.  In the pictures you can see how I try to line up the flat surfaces of the split rail to make a smooth top to attach the bucket.

Step 2: The Bucket Base
After I completed the “A” frame, I measured across the entire length of where the first cross beam was attached.  That was 12 and 1/2″.  That was the front edge length of my first base piece which was cut out of the rough cut fence slats.  Disclaimer…where work gloves and save your fingers.  I learned this the hard way! Splinters = no fun.  Anyway, so the first base piece front edge is measured at 12 and 1/2″ and is cut with a 10 degree angle outwards on both sides to follow the angle of the A frame.  The rest is easy.  You use the back edge of the first piece as the measure of the front edge of the next piece so you don’t even really have to measure. After 4 slats have been made, use the nails and just nail them straight into the A frame to create the base.  That part was easy!

Step 3: The Bucket Side Panels
Now comes the tricky part.  Making the actual bucket.  To start, I made six 10″ high pylons with a 10 degree cut on the bottom and a 45 degree cut at the top to taper it down.  Then I did some test fittings to determine that the pylons must be place 3/4″off the edge of the base all the way around to allow space for the side panels.  So I measured 3/4″ all the way around the base and drew a line using my long level.  After that I placed the pylons where I thought they needed to be, drilled some pilot holes, and drove 2 of the the 1 and 1/2″ wood screws through each of the pylons into the base.  Finally, I added some wood glue to the joints for extra strength and stability (let it completely dry before moving on.)

Now I had to create the panels.  This took me awhile to figure out, but it will be easy for you because I can tell you exactly how you need to cut the wood.  The math is done.  You’re welcome.  Since the A frame is at 10 degrees and the pylons are angling out at 10 degrees, you must use a compound angle cut.  Now if you have a table saw or power miter saw it will be a piece of cake.  If you have a circular saw it will require a few more line measures but it is still pretty easy. (I did it both ways trying to crack the code).  Here’s what you need to know.  The side base panels will each (left and right) be 21 and 1/2″ long at the bottom (where the panel will meet the base).  From that mark you will have to cut a compound angle of 10 degrees and 40 degrees.  You must do this because the bucket is basically going to be a like a pyramid and if you don’t the joints won’t quite line up.  Which even if it doesn’t, it doesn’t really matter, because this is all rough cut wood for a rustic feel!!  So the base front panel then is 11″ long with the same 10 and 40 degree compound cuts.  This means that you turn your miter saw to 10 degrees at the base and then tilt the actual saw blade at 40 degrees.  You’ll see in a picture.  The good news is you only need to cut the base side panels and then you can use the same copy over method as described in making the base.  Once the pieces are cut, place them to see how they fit, then just nail them into the pylons.

Step 4: The Wheel and Feet
Now the hard part is over and you’re almost done!  You just have to attach your wheel.  Use a 1/2″ or 5/8″ spade bit depending on the diameter of wooden dowel rod you got.  I gave you two options because the inner diameter of the steel wheel is 5/8″ but mine had some soldering bulges so I had to use a 1/2″ rod to make sure it would go through and still turn.  Drill the hole for dowel rod straight through both front ends using the spade bit. Then cut the a piece of dowel rod to 9″.  Push it through the beams and the wheel till the rod runs all the way through everything.  I anchored the wheel in the middle using to little screws that I drove into the rod at the edge of the wheel axle on both sides to create a boundary so the wheel doesn’t go everywhere.  Finally, add a little bit of glue to the dowel rod joints to reinforce it.  Last step is cut some of the remaining cedar split rail fencing into 2 pieces that are each 12 and 1/2 long.  Place them just under the bucket and just in front of the back cross bar on the bottom.  Drill some pilot holes and then drive 2 of the 2 and 1/4″ screws through them into the main beams.  Add a little glue to reinforce them and let it dry.

Ta-Daa!! You’ve finished a very rustic wooden wheelbarrow!  Congratulations!  Now you can fill it with whatever kinds of fallish things you would like.  Laura and I used hay, mums, and pumpkins.  This created a very harvest rustic/welcoming fall porch!  And it’s pretty affordable too.  The cost of the all the material was around $50.00 and all of the fall foliage was about $50.00.